Cullen's - A Recipe for Success

When it comes to great wine, there are many factors that influence the outcome. The location and aspect of the vineyard, soils, variety of grape planted, weather conditions, as well as the numerous winemaking decisions about when to pick the grapes and how the wine is made.

Great wines do not happen by accident. They are the result of years of work and dedication. Recently, new ingredients have been made available to winemakers – organic and biodynamic viticulture.

At the forefront of the biodynamic movement in Australia is Cullen Wines. I recently attended a cabernet tasting run by Lamont's in Cottesloe. Vanya Cullen gave us an insight into the winery's move to Organic from the 1998 vintage and Biodynamic from 2004. We tried 10 vintages of the Cabernet Merlot (now called Diana Madeline) from 1998 to 2007.

To say that Vanya is passionate about the Cullen's winery and about biodynamics is an understatement. She lives and breathes both. Her convictions about the benefits of biodynamics stems as much from the principals involved as it does from the benefits that the winery has seen in the vineyard. A healthier vineyard means healthier/better quality fruit.

Founded by Rudolf Steiner, bio-dynamics takes organic farming and adds astrological timing to all decisions (by the phases of the moon). It also adds the use of homeopathic sprays made from manure buried in cow’s horns (bulls horns don’t work apparently). Whilst I don't get the cow horns etc, the aim of a healthier vineyard is admirable (I am a big fan of organic).

Whether or not you full embrace bio-dynamics or not does not matter though. The real issue is the quality of the wines. Looking at the 10 wines, there was a clear change in the wines from 2004 on. The wines seamed to have great vibrancy of fruit, and appear more approachable early in their lives.

An unexpected but welcomed benefit has come in the way of the level of alcohol in the wines. Tannin ripeness is occurring as early as 11 Baume (a measure of sugar), which allows a less alcoholic to be produced. This allows for a more delicate wine where the fruit can really shine.

If I had to use one word to describe these wines, it would be "elegance". The standout wines were (in order) the 2005, 2001, 2007 &1998, with all four having supporters for wine of the night. The 04 and 99 were close behind. This tasting re-affirms Cullen's position as a producer of one of the finest cabernets in Australia and the world.

Cullen - Diana Madeline - Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot - 2007 (18.7). Closed and just a touch dusty at the moment. The fruit is very ripe here, with blackcurrant, forest fruits and a touch of aniseed. The finish is long, dense and really fine. The tannins are very fine indeed. Still retains elegance. Destined to be a great wine.