Cool Climate Cabernet
Last Sunday Tasting
11 February 2010
Non French, cool climate cabernet was the theme for our last Sunday tasting group. The topic itself generated quite a bit of discussion as to what cool climate referred to. We mainly went for wines from cooler sub-regions of the more recognised cabernet producing areas.
Overall, the quality of the wines was excellent and the wine of the tasting was the Larose from Stonyridge. A more complete wine you could not hope to taste. As always, the vagaries of cork played a role, with some potentially excellent wines not being reviewed due to questions around taint. Both the warm up whites were enjoyable, though the Vouvray had a surprising amount of residual sugar for a "sec".
A special thanks to Eva for the excellent meal!
Reviewed
Stonyridge - Cabernet Sauvignon - Larose - Waiheke Vineyard - 2000 (18.5). Dense and inky colour. Fantastic nose with a touch of sea salt, blackcurrant and spice. Silky, vibrant and oh so long. Textured and very fine tannins. Touch of smoky oak on the finish.
Ridge - Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot - Santa Cruz Mountains - 1996 (18.3). Silky and seamless, this is a lovely wine. The nose is mature and seductive, while the palate has lovely texture and a silky mouth-feel. Long and feminine.
Silver Oak - Cabernet Sauvignon - Alexander Valley - 1992 (18.2). Some earthy and meaty notes with lift and a touch smoky oak. Dense and vibrant fruit on the palate. The mouth-feel and texture are superb. There is a touch of vanillin oak on the very long palate. Complex and fully mature.
Giant Steps - Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Petite Verdot/Cabernet Franc - Harry's Monster (18). Dense and powerful wine with licorice and allspice on the nose. The palate is a revelation. The fruit is still youthful but there is enough development and complexity to make for good drinking. Complete wine with balance and elegance.
Vasse Felix - Cabernet Sauvignon - 2003 (18). Classic nose. Powerful herbal and menthol notes with ripe blackcurrant in the background. Firm palate but ripe fruit tannins. Impressive.
Devils Lair - Cabernet Sauvignon - 1997 (17.8). Developed nose. Silky and sexy. There are some mint and eucalypt notes. Not as dense in the middle palate but complex and long. Lovely drink.
Bannockburn - Cabernet Sauvignon - 1991 (17.7+). A touch of earth pong on the nose. Leathery and supple on the palate, this is very long with blackcurrant and cinnamon. Mature, earthy and complete.
Rieussec - Semillon blend - R - 2007 (17.5). A dry white wine from this famous Sauterne producer. This is a complex wine that has had plenty of wine-maker's inputs. There is peach and melon on the nose from the fruit and oak. The palate is textured, creamy and quite long. Oak still evident but there is also a lovely minerality. Needs time to open.
Wynn's - Cabernet Sauvignon - (Black Label) - 1994. (17.5). Very youthful and firm. May evolve.
Domaine Huet - Vouvray - La Mont - Sec - 2007 (17.4). Slightly oily, this is viscous and aromatic with floral notes. The palate is round and complex with enough residual sugar to be noticeable. Lovely mouth-feel. (A touch sweet for a "sec" but delicious all the same).
Petaluma - Cabernet Sauvignon - Coonawara - 1991 (17.3). Leather and spice. Some menthol and cloves. The palate is dense and taught with a touch of blackcurrant. A meaty wine.
Howard Park - Cabernet Sauvignon - 1992 (17). Sweet fruit nose with leather and briar. Aged and textured with savoury fruit. Mature but the finish remains firm.
Delatite - Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc - RJ - 1998 (16.8). Peppermint and cloves. Sweet fruit, but very drying finish.
Ridge - Santa Cruz Mountains - 2004 (16.5). Vibrant hue. Wow. Intense but youthful and firm. Tannins are ripe but dominant. Some herbal and capsicum fruit on the palate with a touch of sweet and sour sauce. Will probably get much better in a few years.