What to buy
The best of this week's blind tastings.
Jete - Chardonnay/Pinot Noir - Sparkling - NV (17). Clean and fresh, with some Granny Smith apple and some autolysis notes. Bready finish with plenty of acid to keep the balance. Sympathetic dosage adds to the enjoyment with good length to boot. A touch of bitterness on the finish works well. (Reviewed 18 January 2012)
Frankland Estate - Riesling - Isolation Ridge - 2011 (18.5). Perfumed talc on the nose, with musk, pear and a hint of sherbet. The palate is superb, with fresh citrus and beautiful balance. The length is excellent and the finish near seamless. A lovely wine that will age gracefully. (Reviewed 18 January 2012)
Howard Park - Riesling - Porongurup - 2011 (18.5). Very pale colour, this is very undeveloped. Seamless, restrained, taut and balanced, this is a sublime wine of real class. Superb mouth-feel with great intensity and length. This will live for a very long time, developing character and richness as it goes. (Reviewed 18 January 2012)
Lillypilly - Noble Blend - 2008 (18.2). Restrained on the nose, this is very youthful and has remarkable lavender aromas. There is, again, that lovely balance of apricot and orange, with a freshness that makes this a delight to drink. Superb length and mouth-feel with the finish fanning out and evolving for more than a minute. Excellent wine! (Reviewed: 2 January 2012)
Lillypilly - Noble Blend - Family Reserve - 2002 (18). Richer colour suggesting more bottle age. A bigger, richer wine with more complexity and greater length. The palate is viscous and mouth-coating, with lovely acidity preventing the finish from becoming cloying. Apricot jam and marmalade fruit to close. A lovely aged wine. (This is still available from the winery). (Reviewed: 2 January 2012)
Tyrrell"s - Semillon - Brookdale - 2011 (17). Straw and lemon on a reserved and restrained nose, this has lovely poise and balance. Needs a few years to open up and show its fruit. (Reviewed: 2 January 2012)
Yering Station - Marsanne/Viognier/Rousanne - MVR - 2009 (17). Complex nose with apricot, orange peel, honey and cashew nut. Very complex, yet refined palate that is long and has well judged phenolics and viscosity. The best wine here from a textural component and European in style. Drink now (Reviewed: 2 January 2012)
Penfolds - Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz - Bin 8 - 2010 (18). More austere than the last wine initially. This has drying tannins and acidity, though the fruit does build on the finish. Textured and long, this also needs some time to show its best. Balance the key here. With air, this shows lifted, complex fruit with menthol, mint and eucalypt. Mid-weight for the style. One panellist commented on the similarities between the Bin 2 and the Bin 389. (Reviewed: 30 December 2011)
Angove - Shiraz - Vineyard Select - 2010 (17.8). I like this wine. Bright, peppery fruit to the max. This is elegant and refined, but there is real thrust to the palate. The oak is very well handled and the tannins fine. The peppery fruit carries the palate and imbues superb length. Chewy, almost licorice fruit, with spicy fruitcake notes to close. Value! (Reviewed: 30 December 2011)
Mt Langi Ghiran - Shiraz - Cliff Edge - 2008 (17-18+). This wine was the sleeper of the tasting. It took two days on the bench for the fruit to open up, but the result was amazing. The wine developed beautiful floral and perfumed notes with great intensity and purity. One for the cellar. (Reviewed: 30 December 2011)
O'Leary Walker - Cabernet Sauvignon - 2010 (18). Excellent Clare Valley fruit on display here. A combination of cooler, minty fruit characters combined with lovely ripe fruit and tannins. This is a very classy wine. Powerful fruit dominates a multifaceted and evolving palate. There are plenty of fine tannins, but these frame the fruit beautifully. A mouth-filling, succulent wine that is a relative bargain. (Reviewed: 28 December 2011)
Leeuwin Estate - Cabernet Sauvignon - Art Series - 2007 (18.2). Cooler region fruit on a restrained and taut nose. On the palate, this really starts to sing. There are layers of fruit combined with excellent winemaker's inputs. This is very complex and very long, with the density of fruit a standout. The palate is refined and relatively understated now, with cedary textural notes dominating the finish. Give it ten years to see it blossom. The excellent fruit quality and winemaking provide superb length. (Reviewed: 28 December 2011)
Deep Woods - Cabernet Sauvignon - Reserve - 2009 (18). Nice wine this. Silky, ripe and perfumed fruit on the nose combine with red fruits/berries and a seamless, silky, textured and evolving finish. This has high class fruit and oak combined with excellent winemaking. This is a classy wine that, whilst very easy to drink, is very complex and age-worthy. (Reviewed: 28 December 2011)
Peter Lehmann – Riesling – The Wigan – 2005 (18.5). More obvious development here. This is starting to get hints of oiliness that I associate with aged riesling. (But not kerosene, for which I am thankful). Fresh as a daisy in the mouth, this has started to show the first signs of development. Long and succulent, this is just starting to approach its drinking window. As one panellist said…"Oh Yeah Baby". (Reviewed 8 December 2011).
Heggies – Riesling – 2011 (18). Austere and steely to start, the palate is bursting with fresh citrus that is a combination of lemon and lime juice. The length is remarkable and the palate is near seamless. A really smart wine with pure fruit handled well. Will take years to be at its best. (Reviewed 8 December 2011).
Angove – Riesling/Gewürztraminer – Butterfly Ridge – 2011 (17.5+). Lovely nose with rose petal and floral perfume. Bright and zesty, this is very attractive. Excellent length and the touch of residual sugar is balanced by refined acidity, making this a joy to drink. The + is for another reviewer who almost gave this a gold medal! (Reviewed 8 December 2011).
Pol Roger – NV (18.3). Refined and very stylish. There is a touch of spice that I can't place but there are also hints of red fruits. Great length with excellent complexity, this builds in the mouth with a corresponding increase in flavour. A fine champagne. (1 December 2011).
Gosset - Grand Reserve - NV (18.2). Now this is interesting. Very appealing nose that combines chardonnay derived minerality with finesse and life. Very lively in the mouth, with a fine mousse. Develops richness and texture as it warms up. Very long and perhaps the most complete wine to date. Mainstream, and all the better for it. (1 December 2011).
Drappier - Signature - Blanc de Blanc – NV – (18). Lovely nose that displays autolysis, bread dough and minerality. A lovely palate that is fresh, vibrant and full of life with hints of grapefruit. Not overly complex, but this will develop with time in the bottle. A refreshing aperitif style. Delivers on the promise of a "mouth-ful of joy" and is a bargain at $40 from Vintage Cellars. (1 December 2011).
Flametree – Sauvignon Blanc – SRS – 2011 (17.5+). Creamy vanillin oak. Beautifully crafted wine. This has lovely texture combined with obvious, though refined and silky oak. Really creamy palate with refined lemony acid to close. Give it a year or two to fill out. An alternative to quality chardonnay. (Reviewed - 15 November)
De Bortoli – Sauvignon Blanc – Deen – Vat 2 – 2011 (16.5). Tropical and grassy notes. Mouth-watering acidity followed by a degree of phenolics and viscosity. The finish is quite long. Serve chilled on a warm afternoon. (Reviewed - 15 November)
Sylvain Mosnier - Chablis - 1er Cru - Cote de Lechet – 2008 (18). Wow, lovely nose. This really sucks you in. Minerals to the fore, with flint, match strike and wet pebble. The density of fruit here is remarkable. Long and fine, this has really pure fruit. Still quite young and closed, there is real potential here. A fine wine and classic Chablis. (23 November)
Philippe Chavy - Meursault - 1er Cru - Les Charmes – 2009 (18.5). Very closed. The palate is outstanding. The texture and mouth-feel are spot on. Very fine and creamy, the palate is almost seamless. Give it 5 years, but it will be superb. (23 November)
Jean Marc Millot - Vosne-Romanee - 1er Cru Les Suchots – 2009 (18.2). Seductive, silky and mouth-filling. Spice, cedar, tar and cherry the main flavours. Everything there, but needs time to show its best. Remarkable length and persistence. (23 November)
Capel Vale – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Debut – 2009 (16.8). Quite deep smelling and a touch masculine. Smart wine here, with hints of chocolate over dark fruits. Excellent structure for a relatively cheap wine and the tannins have been nicely managed. A good drink. (20 November)
Angove – Rose – Nine Vines – 2011 (16.4). Outrageous colour. Deeper pink and more wine like than a lot of roses. Nice combination of fruit and acid, with nice structure. This is a dry style that would be great served chilled with a plate of antipasto. (20 November)
Cape Mentelle - Chardonnay - 2010 (18+). Another very smart wine in the modern style. Restraint is the key ingredient, though there is quality fruit and slick winemaking poking through. The palate is light, fresh, refined, silky and seamless. All potential now, this will blossom. (Reviewed 4 November 2011)
Tyrell's - Chardonnay - Moon Mountain - 2010 (17). Simple but good quality fruit on the nose. Nice wine this. Good fruit runs through the palate with gentle stonefruit and slight lees, savoury and textural notes to close. The oak has been used well, with a slight toastiness to close. Smart wine. (At $15 from Dan Murphy, this is great value Hunter chardonnay) (Reviewed 4 November 2011)
Shingleback - Shiraz - The Gate - 2009 (18+). Closed and tight, this is a sleeping giant. The fruit is superb, though it is totally suppressed right now. The wine has real depth to the palate and the tannins are fine and the high quality oak is well integrated. This wine needs 15 years to show its best, so give it plenty of air if you drink it young. A real star from a producer that is at the top of their game! (Reviewed 27 October 2011)
Yalumba - Shiraz - Galway - 2010 (17.5). Sweet, fragrant fruit on the nose. This is really appealing. Dense and ripe, this has good quality fruit with hints of mocha and spice. The palate is primarily fruit driven, making this quite approachable now. Good length and reasonable depth to the fruit on the palate. Good drinking and great value. Great packaging to boot. (Reviewed 27 October 2011)
Capel Vale - Shiraz - Debut - 2008 (17). Opens with hints of sweet vanillin oak though the fruit is subdued. Silky palate, this has been really well made. The tannins are very fine and this is quite seamless. The fruit is subdued, but this is a classy, if somewhat commercial wine. Not that long, but builds on the finish. Value. (Reviewed 27 October 2011)
Grant Burge - Grenache/Shiraz/Mouvedre - The Holy Trinity - 2008 (17.8). This wine has excellent (old vine?) fruit quality. The nose is packed with bright fruit, though there is a dusty/savoury note that adds complexity. The palate has ripe fruit that is not over done. Powerful, dense and rich, the length is very good. The palate is shut down by fine tannins, but this is a wine of some potential. Chocolate fruit with mulberry, cherry and cedary spice to close. (Reviewed 20 October 2011).
Grosset - Riesling - Springvale - 2011 (18.5). Lovely nose. This is floral and fragrant, with hints of lemon blossom. Steely characters dominate the palate, but this opens up to show fragrant talc and very fine acid/structure. The lemony fruit goes on and on. A superb wine that just got better and better in the glass. This is all class, but I would like to give it a few years. We drank this with a roast chicken for dinner and it was beautiful. (Reviewed 14 October).
Kingston Estate - Shiraz - Echelon - 2008 (18). A touch of menthol and cedar on the nose. The palate has pepper and spice to the max. Long and lean, the tannin structure is spot on. The oak is noticeable, but this will settle down. Fantastic fruit and great value. (Reviewed 14 October).
Apartin - Barolo - 2006 (17.5 - 18). Lovely savoury aromas, but still with aniseed. Much more subdued and better balanced. Excellent structure and length. An excellent wine that is modern. I would like to see this again in a couple of months once it has settled down. (Reviewed 14 October).
Turkey Flats - Cabernet Sauvignon - 2009 (18- 18.5). Lovely nose here. Yes, there are ripe red fruits, but the structure is superb. Mint, eucalypt, perfume and fragrant violets define the nose. The texture is spot on and the palate is dense and very long. This was a big surprise to me as it is an elegant wine that defies its warmer region origin. A great example of Barossa cabernet! (Reviewed 11 October).
Turkey Flats - Shiraz - 2009 (18.5). Fragrant and spicy nose, this is still a touch reserved. The palate is tight and firm, but the depth of flavour is a revelation. Remarkably elegant and refined, this has superb mouth-feel and texture, and the length is spot on. The fruit for this wine came from vineyards in Bethany and Stonewell. (Reviewed 11 October).
Houghton - Chenin Blanc/Chardonnay/Verdelho/Semillon/Muscadelle/Riesling - White Classic - 2011 (17.2). This is much more in the style of an SSB. Floral, citrus, zesty, delicious. Good length and balance. Smart wine. Some of the passionfruit/tropical characters will settle down in the bottle. Unbelievably good wine for the price. (Reviewed 7 October).
Ferngrove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Majestic – 2009 (18 – 18.5). Lovely balance and poise. This wine reeks of class. The nose has red fruits, but has more of the sour cherry aromas. The palate is very complete, with superb fruit in evidence. The oak is a touch dominant now as are the slightly chalky tannins, but time is all that is needed for this to shine. The best value wine here! (Reviewed 30 Sept).
Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Jack Mann – 2008 (18.7). Another beautiful wine possessing the most remarkable balance and poise. Beautifully weighted fruit combine with silky tannins and very tight, sympathetic oak to make a wine of real class and elegance. One of my favourites. (Reviewed 30 Sept).
Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Heytesbury – 2008 (18.5). Seductive nose. Cooler fruit again on the palate. Very refined and excellent balance. Ripe choco-berries, this has quite cool fruit notes, but the fruit is perfectly ripe. Very long and fine, this will be a star in a few years. (Reviewed 30 Sept).
Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.5). Shy and retiring. This is still shut down by the very fine tannins and quality oak. Textured and almost chewy, the tannins are super fine and the finish quite seamless. A really smart wine, and a highlight of the tasting. (Reviewed 30 Sept).
Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Nicholas – 2007 (18.7). This is middle of the road, blending some of the red fruits of the lighter wines with density and structure of the bigger wines. Really classy palate that is both subtle and supple. The palate is ripe and fresh and very long. Lovely mouth-feel and texture. A super wine. (Reviewed 30 Sept).
Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Diana Madeleine – 2007 (18.5). Lighter, more elegant fruit. Cherry, spice, raspberry and spice. Silky and very long. A very refined wine of real class. Superb palate and the tannins are extraordinarily fine. (Reviewed 30 Sept).
Forest Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2007 (18.5). Wow. This is a blockbuster. Spectacular ripe fruit with cigar box, menthol and a touch of savoury, salty complexity on the nose. Follows through on the palate with tremendous concentration of fruit. Yes, the oak is apparent, but it does not dominate. A super wine, but it is not shy or retiring. (Reviewed 30 Sept).
Picardy - Chardonnay - 2010 (17.5 - 18). Nice wine this. Forward, ripe fruit with nectarine and a touch of vanilla from the (quality) French oak. The texture of this wine is a highlight, though the oak needs to settle a touch. Give it a couple of years to blossom. (Full Report - 14 September)
Picardy - Pinot Noir - 2009 (17.5 - 18). Fragrant and perfumed, with lovely gentle spice on the nose. This is really spicy on the palate. The fruit is just starting to open up and the palate has quite expressive fruit. Excellent length and texture, with black fruit in the cherry spectrum. I love the fact that this has none of the smoky bacon characters that Pemberton pinots can get. (Full Report - 14 September)
Picardy - Shiraz - 2009 (18+). A very pretty wine! The nose is defined by fresh white pepper. The palate has more cracked white pepper with plenty of spice. This is elegant, refined and medium bodied, with excellent length and intensity. The wine really builds and has good mouth-feel. The tannins are silky and fine, while the oak only plays a supporting role. (Full Report - 14 September)
Gianni Voerzio - Barolo - La Serra - 2005 (18+). Again, a very refined, yet modern style. Silky, but with more of the sour cherry fruit characters. The finish is a touch tarry, and cries out for food. An excellent wine that would make an excellent introduction for palates raised on Australian shiraz. (Full Report - 15 September).
Luigi Einaudi - Barolo - 2004 (18.5). Quite closed, but the palate is amazing. Vibrant and powerful fruit that has cherry and tar. Very long, the fine tannins shut down the finish. Superb wine with a long future. (Full Report - 15 September).